Frequently Asked Questions

Published national guides put a new asphalt driveway at about $5 to $12 or more per square foot (HomeGuide) or $7 to $15 per square foot (Angi). HomeGuide lists a 20 by 20 foot driveway at roughly $2,000 to $4,800. Parking lots run lower per square foot because of their size, about $2 to $4.50 per square foot in HomeAdvisor's figures. Your written estimate, after we see the site, is the price.

Most of the cost is in materials, equipment and the work you never see. Hot-mix asphalt is made at a plant and trucked hot, and a paver, roller and crew are needed for even a small job, which is why many contractors set a minimum. Removing old pavement and building a proper base also add cost, but they are what keep the surface from failing early.

Not in practice. Blacktop is an everyday name for asphalt pavement, the mix of crushed stone, sand and asphalt binder used on driveways, lots and streets. Some people use blacktop for driveway mixes and asphalt for road mixes, but it is the same material.

It depends more on the base than on the asphalt alone. Three inches of compacted asphalt on a well-compacted 8 to 10 inch aggregate base handles cars, pickups and occasional delivery trucks well. Regular heavy trucks, RVs or trash trucks call for a thicker section, and HomeGuide recommends 4 inches or more for commercial lots.

It is when the base is still sound. An overlay adds a new layer of asphalt over the old surface and costs less than a full replacement. If the driveway has widespread alligator cracking, sunken areas or soft spots, the base has failed and an overlay will crack again, so replacement is the better value.

Spring and fall are the most comfortable, but paving can happen most of the year because hard freezes are rare here. Midsummer work is fine with good timing: we start early and keep traffic off fresh asphalt until it has cooled. Sealcoating needs dry weather between about 50 and 95 degrees.

Most residential driveways take one to three days: removal and base work first, then paving. You can usually walk on it the same day and drive on it after a few days, longer in summer heat. We give you specific timing for your job.

Both work here. Asphalt usually costs less up front and is easier to repair, but it needs sealing every few years and softens in extreme heat. Concrete costs more and stays cooler and harder in summer. Budget, looks and how long you plan to stay all factor in.

If the base is sound and the problems are on the surface, an overlay can work and costs less. If there is alligator cracking, sinking or rutting, the base has failed and new asphalt on top will crack the same way, so we recommend removal.

Ruts form when hot, soft asphalt is pressed by heavy wheels in the same spot, especially over a thin section or a weak base. A thicker asphalt layer over a deeper compacted base resists that, which is why we ask what will park on the driveway.

Work on your own property often does not involve the city, but changing the curb cut or approach in the public right-of-way usually does. We confirm the current City of Ontario requirements for your project before scheduling.

A small lot can be done in a few days. Larger lots are done in phases over one to several weeks, depending on size, base repairs and how much of the lot must stay open. We give you a schedule with the quote.

Often, yes, when the site and local noise rules allow it. Tell us your hours and busiest days at the estimate and we will plan the phases around them.

HomeAdvisor puts resurfacing at about every 15 to 20 years, with sealcoating every two to five years in between. Lots with heavy truck traffic or poor drainage wear faster, which is why we look closely at both.

Yes. Private streets in gated communities and HOA lots are paved and maintained much like commercial lots, and we can phase the work so residents keep access.

On a sound base and with sealing every few years, an overlay can last many years. On a failing base it can crack again within one or two seasons, which is why we check the base before recommending one.

Not if the edges are milled. We grind down the old asphalt along the garage slab, walkways and curb so the new layer finishes flush.

Yes. Lots are often resurfaced in sections, with the worst areas done first. Joints between new and old areas are cut straight and sealed.

Sealcoating is a thin liquid coating that protects existing asphalt. Resurfacing adds a new layer of hot-mix asphalt, typically 1.5 to 2 inches thick, and fixes surface wear that sealcoat cannot.

Every few years for most driveways, depending on sun exposure, traffic and the sealer used. When the surface turns gray and stones start to show, it is due. Sealing too often can build up a film that peels.

Usually within 12 to 72 hours, depending on temperature and humidity. In warm, dry weather it cures faster. We tell you the timing for your job.

No. Sealer is thin and does not bridge cracks. We fill cracks first, then seal over them.

Fresh sealcoat is black and absorbs sunlight, so it feels hot in summer, just as new asphalt does. It does not change how the pavement performs, and it fades to a dark gray over time.

Usually because only the hole was filled and the base under it was left wet or broken. A saw-cut repair that removes and replaces the failed base stops the cycle.

If the damage is in a few areas, yes. If more than about a third of the surface is cracked or patched, replacement is often the better value. We give you both numbers when it is close.

Yes. The settled asphalt is cut out, the trench backfill is compacted or replaced, and the area is repaved to match the surrounding grade.

They can lift and crack it. We cut out the lifted section and repair it; removing or barriering roots is a decision for you and, if needed, an arborist.

Every couple of years for most lots, more often for busy retail lots. Restriping is also needed after every sealcoat or resurfacing.

It depends on the total number of spaces, under the table in the 2010 ADA Standards. At least one in six accessible spaces must be van-accessible. We count the lot and show you the requirement.

Yes, when the site allows. Overnight striping keeps busy lots open during the day.

Yes. Fire lane markings and red curbs follow the fire department's requirements for the site; we paint to the marking your site plan or fire marshal specifies.

Old lines can be blacked out with sealcoat or a masking paint so the new layout is clear. A full sealcoat before restriping gives the cleanest result.